Tuesday, August 4, 2015

Day 51: Tuolumne Grove of Giant Sequoias (7/25/15)

Fantastic day in Yosemite. After reading John Muir's God's First Temples: How Shall We Preserve Our Forests? I was inspired to go to one of the giant sequoia groves to paint the trees and forests Muir spoke so eloquently about. He says these trees "fill the woods and form the principal tree, growing heartily on solid ledges, along water courses, in the deep, moist soil of meadows, and upon avalanche and glacial debris. With a multitude of thrifty seedlings and saplings crowding around the aged, ready to take their places and rule the woods." He talks about the interconnectedness of the forest and sierra ecosystem, how important their preservation is in a bigger web beyond the forest. He says fire is the biggest destroyer of these forests, and I think it wasn't until the late 20th century (I could literally be completely wrong about this so don't quote me) that we started to understand the role of fire in forest regrowth. But, careless, uncontrolled fires are still a danger regardless.

This is the second largest Sequoia grove (not sure if that stat is for the park or the country). They are limited by special growing needs, requiring moisture and periodic fire. They tower up to 200 feet and grow up to 35 feet in diameter. They start from little tiny seeds in cones but grow to be bigger than I can ever describe in words or paint or photos. They are relics and antiques, trees who have seen generations and centuries. Trees who could tell stories of a distant past if given the power of speech. It is difficult to comprehend how long these trees have been growing, given their humble seedling beginnings in the protection of pinecones. They have survived fires and the folly of man. The other pines in this forest are quite massive as well, making this grove and forest spectacular. They don't have any branches on their lower trunk to help them survive the fires that sustain them, and we are able to see the full girth of their red trunks. Looking up one sees branches start to emerge with tufts of bright green pines that look soft and delicate from the forest floor. I am incredibly inspired here.

Painting the grove has been another challenge to my painting abilities. But it really is the same process as any other painting...background first, then middle, then foreground. The background of this painting is more detailed than others, as a dense forest. Two baby mule deer with their mama came walking through the first behind me...they were very young and very cute. When I finished painting I walked to a picnic table near the grove and read from my John Muir book about the redwoods. I have to say it was a very special moment on my trip to be reading John Muir's words on forests and large growth trees in a sequoia grove in Yosemite. One sentence really shocked me - "No doubt these trees (sequoias) would make good lumber after passing thr h a sawmill, as George Washington after passing through the hands of a French cook would have made good food." Muir personifies these voiceless trees and although grotesque and shocking, it is an effective comparison for us to consider these trees as valuable beings in our world. "Any fool can destroy trees," he says. "They cannot defend themselves or run away."

Through all the eventful centuries since Christ's time, and long before that, God has cared for these trees, saved them from drought, disease, avalanches, and a thousand storms; but he cannot save them from sawmills and fools; this is left to the American people.

We are still charged with this same task today, as guardians of our national parks.

After a steep hike back to my car, I went to take a shower at "Housekeeping" which has showers, laundry, and hybrid campsite/cabins. I thought showers would be $5 and I grabbed a rag towel I had in my car (all my shower stuff was in the bear box at my campsite) and a big bottle of soap from my extra supplies. Turns out you're provided a towel, and there's soap and shampoo in the showers, and the water is warm, and they're ~free~ which is awesome. The only downsides are they are far away from my campsite and there was a bit of a line. But that wasn't even bad because I chatted with some ladies and got some tips about places to go in the park.

My dream of hiking the John Muir Trail is especially alive after a couple days in this park. There is a LOT here for people who like the outdoors, more than any other park I've been to. Climbing (from beginner to very serious climbers), hiking (day hiking and backpacking), cycling (no-helmet cruising on the bike path to panniers up the mountain passes), and extensive, intense trails like the John Muir Trail and Pacific Crest Trails run through the park as well. There is an art center that offers workshops daily put on by different artists, a theater with programs each evening, and the usual ranger programs typical of a national park. There are mountains, foothills, valleys, groves, lakes, streams, rivers, waterfalls, and creeks. Basically everything I love ever minus Dan is in this park. I really think I saved the best for last.

GIANT Sequoia!
Giant Sequoia
HUGE pinecones. I don't think they come from the sequoias though. There are very large pine trees here too that produce the cones. People were taking them out of the grove (idiots!)
The megatron of pinecones.
Massive fallen tree.
Tree rings...many years old.
Towering trees!
King of the trees!
Ruler of the forest!
Baby mule deer.
Two of them with their mama.
Soooo cute.
Giant Sequoia in Tuolumne Grove.
Bierstadt's Giant Redwood Trees of California
Mariposa Grove by Albert Bierstadt (I've found some discrepancies in titles from my book and online). Anyway, this tree is known as Giant Grizzly in the Mariposa Grove. Sad that the grove is closed on my trip but I found a strikingly similar composition in the Tuolumne Grove.
A studio in a sequoia grove.
With giant died trees to rest my brushes.
All day I heard, OMG! It's a dinosaur footprint! which it clearly is.
Look at the guy on top to get some perspective on how huge the tree roots are.
You can even walk through the tree.
Another vertical panorama to show the height of these trees.
This dead tree was carved out for cars to drive under, back in the day...still a big photo attraction today.
Yours Truly with what I believe is the largest sequoia in this grove.
Sunset in the Yosemite Wilderness.
Stunning light...
Incredible light on the mountains! Very pink and warm.
Had to stop and do a quick sketch! 6x8in
What an amazing place to be as an artist.

 

 

Monday, August 3, 2015

Day 50: El Capitain (7/24/15)

I woke up a bit later than I wanted to...chilly mornings in the mountain! Service and data here is so limited that I had no idea what to expect during the day as far as weather goes. On my way to Yosemite Valley (about an hour drive) I hit the same construction I did yesterday which further delayed me from my destination. I got ice and gas on my way (there are only two gas station in the park so I try to fill up when I can). I don't know if I mentioned this yet but gas and ice out here are INSANELY EXPENSIVE. I would not be surprised if tons of people out here drive hybrids. I'm talking almost $4.50 a gallon for gas and over $5 for a bag of ice I paid $3 for in Yellowstone. It might be the water shortage out here that drove up ice prices. Crazy the things I notice since I've had to buy ice almost every day on this trip.

I went down to the Yosemite Valley and decided to paint El Capitan. There is a meadow across from the mountain face that was recommended to me by the Ranger. I found a nice shady spot...it was a little close to the mountain, closer than it seems in the photos, but I went with it and made it work. I saw a video on Facebook that Google made about climbers on El Capitan (I'd call it El Cap if I was really hip and cool) and this video is awesome. There's a link at the end of this post. I don't really have any interest in this kind of mountain climbing but the video is so cool and inspiring. I think that's why I decided to paint here first.

The face of this mountain is a foreboding , steep, sheer mountain face. The flat planes made it easier to paint but I know not easier to climb. It is mind boggling that people climb this mountain. I really cannot believe it...but the kind of crazy it takes to say "hmm yeah I'll climb that...and I won't use ropes...and I'll do it in xx hours...and..." really pumps me up and gets my adventure juices flowing. Anyway...this mountain face has a rich history with climbers. I'm glad I was here at the time I was (about 2:30 to 5:00) because of the dramatic shadow right down the middle of the mountain. It was really stunning how blue the shadows and how warm the highlights were. I am just loving Yosemite, and this valley is especially grand as you are surrounded by mountains.

I don't have much to say about Bierstadt's rendition of El Capitan...but I think the valley was different then. No road, and much more water in the river. The light is really beautiful in his painting. He emphasized the warmth of the sun on the mountains, which I witnessed today. I finished my painting after the free shuttle stopped running so I had a three mile hike back to my car. It was fine but I lost the path a few times and a huge tour bus of people cheered for me as I walked along the road during one of my ~searching for the path~ phases. I saw some mule deer. They're cute and smaller than the deer in Ohio.

Final thought...please check out the links below! And let me know if they don't work because this iPad copy paste limited service stuff gets wonky.

http://www.google.com/maps/about/behind-the-scenes/streetview/treks/yosemite/ - you can "tour" El Capitan vertically on google maps.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bEpMR86wxeQ - a must watch video about three famous climbers on El Capitan. Inspiring regardless of your interest in climbing.

El Capitan
"El Capitan, Yosemite Valley" by Albert Bierstadt
"El Capitan, Yosemite" by Albert Bierstadt
 
El Capitan
El Capitan
How many photos of El Capitan can on have?
Never too many. Here's my studio, in the meadow across from El Cap. I was just in awe the whole day.
People climb this!! Incredible.
Mule deer on my hike back.
Light and shadow contrast in the valley.

 

Sunday, August 2, 2015

Day 49: Bridgeport, CA to YOSEMITE!!! (7/23/15)

I woke up early this morning and took a shower at the campsite. I went to the office at 7:00am to pay and the owner said "I'm not gonna charge you. Do you want some coffee?" What! So kind!!! She is an older woman and she told me about the great memories she has of her dad, who was a true outdoorsman and also a painter. After we chatted for a bit I was on my way with the singular mission of getting a campsite in Yosemite.

I passed the beautiful Mono Lake en route to the east entrance of the park. Driving Tioga Road was pretty amazing...the Sierra Nevada range is unlike any of the mountain ranges I've seen on this trip. I don't have any photos from this leg of the drive, but as soon as I hit the mountains I was in awe. I didn't realize I'd still been recovering from my Six Week Slump until I hit these mountains and felt alive, awake, and inspired again. It's hard to describe...but I instantly felt so good about being here. I wish I could post a video I took of this drive to give you readers a glimpse, twisting and turning and climbing through the rocky Sierras along this road.

I got to the entrance and drove through Tuolumne Meadows on my way to White Wolf. Campsite full. Got nervous and headed down to Yosemite Creek campground, nervous that all others were full. The road down to the campsite was the longest half hour of my life. Saying the road was in poor condition is an understatement. Basically one way, so many bumps and deteriorating pavement, and steep. My van is a trooper. I reserved a campsite for one night just in case, but thought to myself there is no way I am doing that drive twice a day. Luckily I found a spot at Porcupine Flat down the road. Something different about Yosemite - "no water" in Yellowstone means no flush toilets or showers. "No water" here means no water at all. So water was my next mission.

As I drove through the park into the valley, I could hardly believe it. I remember my fellow Fellow Amanda saying on the last stop of her trip in Europe that she never really thought she'd make it there. That's how I feel about Yosemite...it was always so far in the future, it never seemed like I'd actually BE in Yosemite. So I really experienced awe on many levels today. With Yosemite always looming in the distant future, this is also the least planned leg of my adventure. I dedicated today to read through my Bierstadt book, talk to a ranger, and map out my time here. Jesse at the Visitor Center answered ~a lot~ of questions with the expert knowledge and experience I have found in all park rangers.

I took a short walk over to Yosemite's Upper and Lower Falls, which are delicate and graceful as they flow over massive granite rock faces. The upper falls are some of the tallest in the world. With the drought, I am lucky to see any water going over these falls. John Muir built his home at the base of these falls for two years. At one overlook is a really nice plaque dedicated to him with the quote: "Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you and the storms their energy while cares will drop off like autumn leaves." Muir's descriptions of nature are incredibly life like and personified. He describes nature as therapeutic, as friendship. The trees in this forest are unlike any others I've seen. Red trunked conifers with warm green needles. The green is more yellow and warmer than other pines. They stand with wide girth and tall stature, reaching toward the sky. They are large but don't seem so big when placed among the mountains.

My hike brought me to more Muir quotes and plaques: "As long as I live, I'll hear waterfalls and birds and winds sing. I'll interpret the rocks, learn the language of flood, storm, and the avalanches. I'll aquatint myself with the glaciers and wild gardens, and get as near the heart of the world as I can." As near the hear of the world as I can. Do I have a new life motto? A new one sentence artist statement? Quite possibly. After this hike I realized that although I am visually following Bierstadt's journey in Yosemite, I am spiritually following Muir. I am very happy to be here.

Mono Lake
Bierstadt's painting of Mono Lake
My first view of the Sierra Nevada mountains!
Mono Lake
Can't believe I made it to YOSEMITE!
Gymnast tree doing the splits. On a rock, too. Ouch.
High Sierra!
High Sierra! Amazing...
Crazy mountain tree
Upper Falls - just happy there's water on it with the drought.
Upper Falls
Upper and Lower Falls
Sketch of the Lower Falls
Walked to the Lower Falls
 
Unique granite rock formations.
Unique granite rock formations.
Lower Falls
Rock piles
HALF DOME!!!